Archive for the ‘Setup’ Category

Tyre Pressure

Friday, August 18th, 2006

Tyre pressure is down to rider preference, some people like to change the pressure in their tires depending on the wind and the terrain their riding on.

The softer the tires, the slower the ride but more comfortable (less bumpy!) and more grip, whereas if the tires are at their maximum pressure they will get you rolling easier and faster as well as giving you the ability to slide easier.

If your on grass its generally better to have medium to hard tires, on soft sand a lower pressure will make the surface area in contact with the ground at any one point larger, making you sink less (but only to a certain extent!), on wet sand a higher pressure will allow you to blast along the beach at top speed.

When beginning you may find it preferable to have a lower pressure so that you don’t go too fast.

Remember to only use a manual pump, anything producing too high a pressure may damage the tyre.

Skate Trucks

Friday, August 18th, 2006

Skate trucks used to be renowned for getting major speed wobble, that was before we learnt how to tune them properly. In this guide you will learn how to get the best out of skate trucks and make your boarding a better experience

1. Rubbers

A lot of people don’t pay any attention to the rubbers in their skate trucks, they just tighten and tighten them as the rubbers wear out. This is fine if you don’t mind loosing a lot of steering ability and the board will feel very unresponsive.

Most people will agree that the best rubbers are either “Independants” or “Doh-Dohs” as these are well made and definitely worth paying a couple of extra pounds for as they should last ten times as long. The best place to buy these rubbers is your local skate shop, take your old ones in with you to make 100% sure they are the same size. Generally the lighter colours are the harder rubbers but it is worth asking as different makes can be different.

2. Pivot Cup

With most skate trucks the pivot can get worn out very quickly and sometimes has quite a loose fit in the cup, this can increase your chances of getting speed wobble as well as making your trucks wear out and need replacing sooner. A quick (possibly not very easy, but worthwhile) solution to this is to get down to the local skate shop (do they recognise you yet?? the annoying one asking all the questions probably!) and buy a set of skate cups. These are smaller than the mountainboard ones but with a bit of effort you can get them onto your pivot. Leave the mountainboard ones in as well and you have a much tighter truck, without loosing any of the steering ability and it should last longer as well.

Packing Your Kite

Friday, August 18th, 2006

Packing your kite is an important step as it is what decides how long you get flying the next time you take out the kite. Time needs to be taken about how you pack your lines and there are several methods which all work well, its up to you which to choose. All the methods here involve leaving the lines on the kite which is definitely the best thing to do as this almost guarantees there to be no major twists when you unpack the kite, it also stops the kites bridle tangling.

1. Folding the kite
There two main ways to fold the kite, some people put the two wingtips together then fold it smaller and smaller, tuck the bridles in and roll it. The other technique is fold the tips into the middle then in again then fold the kite over tucking in the bridles then roll. Both these methods work well, the latter can sometimes be easier when packing away on a windy beach.

2. Packing the lines
There are two main ways to pack up your lines, one basically involves stuffing them into the bag (parapacking) and the other involves wrapping them around the handles, bar or winder.

Parapacking is called such as it is the main method of packing a parachute. This is definitely the fastest way to go from arriving on the beach to having a kite in the air and is quite fast on the packing but some people just don’t trust it. When it goes wrong it can go seriously wrong!

To Pack:

  1. Secure your kite onto the ground,
  2. Fold/roll up your kite into the correct size for your kite bag ensuring all bridles are inside and not tangled,
  3. Put the kite in the bag and zip the zips up around it, but leave the top open with plenty of space for your hand, now take the lines in your left hand (or right depending on what you prefer),
  4. Use your other hand to pull all the lines from the bag end of your hand down into the inside of the bag on one side of the kite, letting the lines run loose through your first hand,
  5. Repeat this until you reach the handles or bar, you can either do it while walking back or walk back first and then start,
  6. Once all the line is in the bag, put your handles together (or bar) and place them on the opposite side of the kite from your lines or in a separate pocket of the kite bag if provided.

To Unpack:

  1. Stake your bar out upwind and walk back downwind with your kite bag carefully so that the lines come out gently,
  2. If there are any small knots give the lines a quick shake, otherwise have a closer look, it is generally only a small line looped through another if at all and is easy to fix so don’t go mad!
  3. Once all lines are deployed, take the kite out of the bag, unfold it and secure it to the ground in someway if necessary
  4. Walk back to the handles/bar and fly!

Wrapping the lines is viewed as a much safer option by most people. The lines can either be wrapped around the tops of the handles, a figure of eight around the bar or onto the winder, either around or as a figure of eight.

To Pack:

  1. Fold the kite and put it in the bag, leaving the lines attached
  2. Start from the control end wrapping the lines around the tops of the handles or around the bar. If winding around the winder then start from where the leaders end and the lines begin, otherwise wrap the leaders first followed by the lines. Try to keep the lines quite tightly wrapped as this will prevent them slipping off when they are in the bag, this would cause a massive birds nest. DO NOT CHANGE HANDS or you WILL end up with one large birds nest when you come to take the lines off!
  3. When you reach the bag secure the lines by either pinching them between the handles or by wrapping them around the bar/winder a couple of times.

To Unpack:

  1. Take the handles/bar/winder and unwrap the lines – make sure you hold the lines in the SAME hand as when you wrapped them up, this is VERY important as if you don’t you will end up with massive twists in the lines.
  2. When you have unwound all the lines stake out the handles/bar, go back to the bag and take the kite out. Unfold it and let it sit there ready to fly. A few good tugs on the lines will get most of the twists out, you should have at most a couple of spins of the bar/handles to get clear lines!

Line maintenance and adjustment

Friday, August 18th, 2006

General Line Maintenance:
Your kite lines are one of the most important things with the KiteATB setup, regularly(i.e. when you are packing and unpacking) check your lines for abrasions, wear and tear, nicks in the line, or loose threads. Also make sure that there are no knots actually on your line (from sleeving to sleeving of your line); As if there are then these can be likely points to cause the line to break under high load.

Remember you need to take care with your lines, as they are very important, especially when you are flying through the air!

How To Adjust Line Lengths:

Most kite lines will stretch when they are first used, and/or may not be equal lengths when you first start. So obviously if you find that you need to adjust the lengths, which isn’t too hard all you have to do is:

  • Get a stake, and loop the sleeving of the lines around the stake (place all lines at this point)
  • Now go to the end of your lines, and pull on the lines, find the line which is the shortest, this will end up being the length the rest of the lines are.
  • Undo the sleeving knot at the end of the line you are adjusting,
  • Leave the sleeving on the line.
  • Holding the end piece of line poking out of the sleeving, push the sleeving down the line and tighten it (by pulling the ends of the sleeving – imagine a Chinese finger trap: tightens against the line the more taught it is)
  • When the middle of the sleeving is roughly equal with the end of the line you are comparing to (i.e. the end of the sleeving loop) you need to tie an overhand loop knot.
  • Repeat until all lines are equal.
  • The knot required is shown beneath:

Speedo Fitting

Friday, August 18th, 2006

When choosing your speedo there are several points to consider:

  • You need to choose one which will first suit your wheel, most speedos are programmed by either the diameter of the wheel or the circumference of the wheel, either is ok, but make sure you read the packaging and make sure it will go down to a size suitable for your board wheels.
  • The more buttons the less waterproof it is likely to be, which should be taken into consideration,
  • If the speedo is wired or not, this will make no difference apart from how to attach, generally its up to you.

Attaching the Magnet to your wheel:
You can do this two ways – You can stick the magnet to your wheel rim by using an epoxy glue of some sort, this is not always successful – Or you could unscrew the bolts holding your rim together until it is loose enough to get fingers behind the rim, then you need to drill a hole through the rim and counter-sink it so that the head of the screw you will put through it is flush with the plastic if the inside of the rim.

Attaching the Sensor Unit:
You could make a bracket by using a piece of flat metal by curving and bending it into a shape to go around the trucks axle and leaving it sticking up to tie wrap the sensor to, make sure before you attach it too securely that it is at the correct distance from the wheel magnet and that it works when you spin the wheel.

For Wired Computers (Ignore if Wireless):
Take the wire along the axle to the centre of the trucks and then up the outside of them and to the top of the board and tie wrap it at numerous points to keep it positioned correctly and out of the way of the trucks when turning.

Attaching the computer to your deck:
This could be done in a number of ways, I attached mine by means of the bracket that came with the speedo, which I shortened the length of, then drilled a hole through to accommodate a screw which I then put into the deck, make sure the top of the screw is flush with the plastic as otherwise the computer itself may not go on it properly and ensure that it is securely fastened as you don’t want it flying off your board on landing.
Something else to ensure the long life of your speedo is that you position the computer at a good position on top of the deck, so that the curve of the deck and the bindings prevent it from getting hit when the board falls upside down if you kick it off mid jump.

Have fun and take care!